As someone who has visited A Coruña, also known as La Coruña, in Northern Spain many times, I was thrilled to learn that my upcoming Princess Cruises itinerary included a stop there. I looked forward to discovering both new and familiar things to do in the city.
Having grown up less than a few hours from A Coruña, I feel intimately acquainted with this part of the world. The rugged coastline, verdant headlands, and ever-present grey skies are all a part of my personal history. However, this would be my first time visiting the city as a tourist, and so I approached it with a fresh perspective and an open mind. Here’s what I discovered.
Discover A Coruña’s Heroine
At the heart of A Coruña lies the magnificent Praza de María Pita (Maria Pita Square), a bustling hub that serves as an excellent starting point for any exploration of the city. Take a moment to relax with a coffee at one of the café terraces and marvel at the beautiful modernist architecture of the Town Hall, which was constructed in the early 20th century. You’ll be surrounded by arcaded buildings with striking galleries, a hallmark of the city’s architecture.
But the square’s most significant feature is the statue of María Pita, a local heroine who fought against the English Armada led by Sir Francis Drake, better known locally as Pirate Drake, in the 16th century.
Lose Yourself in the Old Town
Located in the far northwest corner of Spain, in the autonomous region of Galicia, A Coruña’s oldest quarter, known as Cidade Vella or the Old Town, was constructed on the site of an ancient hill fort that was inhabited until the Romans arrived in the 2nd century and took over.
Take a stroll through the narrow streets of the Old Town and marvel at the monuments and squares, as well as the occasional piece of street art you’ll encounter. The area’s granite pavements and buildings contribute to a somber ambiance that is further heightened by the region’s famously harsh weather.
Explore the City of Glass
A leisurely walk along the Avenida de la Marina seafront will lead you to the famous galleries that have earned the city the nickname of the City of Glass. These galleries comprise one of the largest collections of glass structures in the world and are a well-known symbol of the city.
Originally, these buildings were used by fishermen who lived in them and stored their boats under the arcades. Even today, you can see the rings they used to tie their boats. The main façade of these buildings faces the Praza de María Pita, while the façades facing the sea were once the back of the buildings.
During the Modernist era at the beginning of the 20th century, the galleries became popular as a way to maximize the amount of natural light and enjoy the views while getting protection from the harsh weather in Galicia.
Join the Locals for Tapas
Galicia is renowned for its food, particularly seafood, and it would be a shame to visit Spain without experiencing the local fare in the local style – tapas. The best tapas bars are located in the Old Town, where we stumbled upon La Bombilla, a popular local establishment, according to a resident we met at the bar.
Although we later learned from a local friend that the original owners had moved out and opened another bar on the same street, La Bombilla remained a favorite spot for lunch among the locals and us, of course!
Feeling nostalgic for my grandmother’s cooking, I ordered caldo gallego (a traditional Galician vegetable broth), chorizo con patatas (fried chorizo with sliced fried potatoes), tortilla (Spanish omelet – a must-try food in Spain), and calamares a la romana (fried calamari).
All of this, surprisingly, cost around €5, and it was delicious! Sipping on the caldo in particular took me back to the winter Sundays of my childhood when my family gathered around the table for lunch.
Explore the World’s Oldest Working Lighthouse
A visit to A Coruña isn’t complete without seeing the Torre de Hércules, the city’s iconic symbol. Built by the Romans in the 2nd century, it’s hard to believe that it’s still functioning. The lighthouse is the oldest working one in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s located on a promontory overlooking the Atlantic, and the walk from the city to the headland along the seafront is stunning. Orzán beach is on one side and the city on the other, making the walk itself enjoyable. Although the lighthouse has been restored several times, it retains its beauty, and the surroundings are breathtaking. The waves crashing against the rocky coastline and the blustery wind create a dramatic atmosphere that’s hard to forget.
Meet Brogan
The story behind the name of my blog, Brogan Abroad, is close to my heart. Brogan (or Breogán) is a revered hero in Galicia and the Celtic King who founded the Kingdom of Galicia. When I became the human companion of a lively English springer spaniel, I named him Brogan in honor of my roots. After he passed away, I decided to name my blog after him, as it was inspired by my travels and my dog. Brogan is a significant figure in Galician culture, and the statue of the Celtic King is situated at the bottom of the headland where the Torre de Hércules stands. It’s a must-see spot that reflects the region’s history and culture.
Sip Sangria to End the Day
After exploring A Coruña, we had some time before returning to our cruise ship, the Sapphire Princess. The sun had finally come out, and we decided to find a place to have a drink along the seafront. The best spot was one of the bars located below the galleries, right on the arcades. We sat on the sunny terrace, facing the port, and ordered some sangria to end the day. The fog and grey skies had cleared up, making it a perfect ending to a wonderful day in A Coruña.