Discover the Enchanting Charm of Coimbra: A Hidden Gem in Portugal
Let me introduce you to the captivating city of Coimbra, which happens to be the closest city to my home in Portugal. Nestled along the serene riverbanks, this picturesque destination boasts a UNESCO World Heritage university and a rich history that traces back to Roman times.
Coimbra holds a special place in my heart as it was the first city I called home in Portugal. I am thrilled to share with you the myriad of experiences and attractions it has to offer.
Unfortunately, many visitors tend to underestimate the time needed to truly immerse themselves in all that Coimbra has to offer. From its captivating landmarks to its array of enticing activities, this city deserves at least a couple of days to be fully appreciated. Moreover, Coimbra serves as an excellent base for exploring the surrounding areas, offering numerous day trip opportunities that further enhance your overall experience.
University of Coimbra: A Historic Gem in Coimbra
When you find yourself in Coimbra, make sure to explore the remarkable UNESCO World Heritage university. It holds the distinction of being the first of its kind in Portugal, and its oldest section is housed within the former Royal Palace, perched atop the city’s highest hill.
For a deeper appreciation of this significant site, embark on a guided tour of the University of Coimbra. With a knowledgeable guide by your side, you’ll gain insights into its rich history and cultural importance.
Even if you choose not to pay for access to the exquisite Joanine Library or other exclusive rooms, there are still plenty of free attractions to enjoy. Take in the breathtaking views of the Mondego River from the Patio das Escolas and marvel at the hand-painted tiled walls that adorn some of the university’s corridors.
Joanine Library: A Baroque Treasure
Nestled in the heart of the university, the Joanine Library is a sight to behold and widely regarded as one of the most beautiful libraries worldwide. Constructed in 1717, it boasts a collection of over 70,000 volumes, many of which hold immeasurable value.
What sets this library apart, besides its stunning Baroque architecture, is its peculiar method of preservation. A colony of bats calls this library home, feasting on pests during the night and helping to maintain the books in impeccable condition. To uncover more about the unique student traditions at the University of Coimbra, consider joining a tour led by a former student, which includes a visit to the Joanine Library.
In summary, the University of Coimbra presents an incredible blend of history, architectural beauty, and educational significance. Whether you explore its grounds, admire the awe-inspiring library, or delve into its unique traditions, this university is a must-visit destination in Coimbra.
Chapel of Sao Miguel: A Royal Palace Jewel
Formerly part of the Royal Palace, the Chapel of Sao Miguel within the university is a true marvel. To witness its beauty, an entry ticket is required, granting access to the stunning azulejo wall tiles adorned with intricate designs and an exquisite Baroque organ.
UNESCO Rua Sofia: A Historic Journey
As the University of Coimbra expanded beyond its original boundaries, it found new homes in several former convents along Rua Sofia, a street of great significance. The opportunity arose in 1834 when Portuguese monasteries were abolished, allowing the university to claim these spaces.
While descending from the university towards this remarkable street, you’ll encounter other noteworthy landmarks. These include the 12th-century Sé Velha Cathedral, the Sub Ripas Palace from the 16th century featuring a magnificent Manueline doorway, and the historical Santa Cruz Church dating back to the 12th century. The abundance of such historically significant buildings in the vicinity contributes to the area’s recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
In summary, the Chapel of Sao Miguel stands as a precious gem within the former Royal Palace, showcasing its ornate decorations and captivating organ. Along the path leading to the renowned Rua Sofia, you’ll encounter a series of remarkable architectural wonders that reflect the University of Coimbra’s expansion and the area’s rich historical legacy.
Discover Coimbra’s Traditional Student Houses: Repúblicas
Dating back to the 14th century, Repúblicas emerged in Coimbra when King Dinis I commanded the construction of houses within the citadel of Coimbra Castle. These houses were intended to accommodate students and the esteemed individuals of the city. Today, more than 20 Repúblicas continue to operate as communal student residences, managed by the students themselves and governed by their unique rules and regulations. Look out for their distinctive signs and quirky decorations to spot these vibrant student houses throughout the city.
Relax and Unwind at Praça da República
Situated at the apex of the picturesque Avenida Sá da Bandeira, Praça da República is a spacious square encompassed by charming cafés and lively bars. Located just a short distance from the university, it is a popular gathering spot for students both day and night. During events like freshers’ week and other academic celebrations, you’re likely to encounter groups of caped scholars immersing themselves in the vibrant atmosphere of this bustling square.
In summary, Coimbra’s Repúblicas provide a glimpse into the city’s longstanding student culture, with their historical significance and distinct character. Meanwhile, Praça da República offers a vibrant social hub where students and visitors alike can unwind and enjoy the lively ambiance of this bustling square.
Unveiling the Enchantments of Coimbra Botanical Garden
Amongst the diverse array of gardens in Coimbra, the botanical gardens affiliated with the university stand out as the largest and most remarkable. Established in the 18th century, these gardens hold numerous treasures, particularly now that the pathway connecting the upper gardens with the lower gate has been opened. Whether you prefer a leisurely stroll or opt for a bus ride to conquer the hill, there are options to suit everyone.
Upon reaching the upper level, you’ll encounter captivating features such as Lime Tree Avenue, a newly restored greenhouse, a majestic strangler fig tree, and a charming landscaped area surrounding an ornate fountain. Descending from this point, a few enticing detours from the main path will lead you to a bamboo grove, the city cistern, and remnants of the original city walls.
Witness Views and Poetry at Penedo da Saudade
A short distance away from the Botanical Gardens, on Av. Marnoco e Sousa, lies Penedo da Saudade, a rocky garden clinging to the hillside that offers breathtaking panoramic views of Coimbra and the distant hills. Originally known as the Stone of the Winds, this place held deep significance for King Pedro, who would retreat here to mourn the loss of his beloved Inês.
Throughout the 20th century, the gardens became a cherished gathering spot for academics and alumni, hosting student reunions where they would leave their mark in the form of poems dedicated to Coimbra, particularly its esteemed university. These heartfelt verses adorn stone tablets, immortalizing the deep connection between the individuals and the city.
In summary, Coimbra Botanical Garden unveils a world of enchantment, boasting its grandeur as the city’s largest and finest green space. Discover the wonders of Lime Tree Avenue, the impressive greenhouse, and captivating natural features. Then, venture towards Penedo da Saudade to witness awe-inspiring vistas and immerse yourself in the poetic ambiance left by generations of scholars and alumni.
Experience the Glass-Sided Pedro and Inês Bridge at Parque Verde, aka Green Park
Parque Verde, also known as Green Park, offers a delightful adventure for visitors. One of its notable attractions is the glass-sided Pedro and Inês Bridge, inviting you to take a memorable stroll while enjoying panoramic views of Coimbra and the Mondego River. As you cross this colorful bridge, you’ll be treated to breathtaking sights that capture the essence of the city.
The bridge serves as the starting point for the “Discovering the Charms and Places of Coimbra” tour, providing valuable insights into the cultural significance of this vibrant city. Immerse yourself in the tour’s exploration of Coimbra’s enchanting landmarks and uncover its rich heritage.
Furthermore, the riverside bars and restaurants, affectionately known as Docas, have recently reopened. Here, you can bask in the holiday-like atmosphere while sipping a refreshing beer by the water’s edge, truly embracing the relaxed ambiance.
Stroll amidst the Scenic Parque Manuel Braga
Please note that the park is currently closed for renovations.
For those seeking picturesque tranquility, Parque Manuel Braga offers an alternative haven. Adorned with charming riverside avenues lined with majestic plane trees and adorned with lovely flower beds, this park exudes beauty. Take a moment to sit in one of the romantic love seats, allowing you to observe the fountain in the river or enjoy a leisurely stroll in the comforting shade of the trees.
Within the park, the small Museu Da Agua frequently hosts temporary art exhibitions, adding a touch of culture to your visit. Additionally, each June, the park hosts an annual craft and book fair, providing an opportunity to explore and discover local talents.
Tip: When the museum is open, you can purchase a drink from the vending machine and venture to the lower level, passing through a tunnel that leads to a “secret” platform overlooking the river, offering a unique perspective on the surroundings.
In summary, Parque Verde beckons with its remarkable Pedro and Inês Bridge, promising breathtaking views and a profound connection to Coimbra’s cultural heritage. Additionally, the scenic Parque Manuel Braga presents an idyllic retreat, boasting tree-lined avenues and delightful attractions. Although the park is currently closed for renovations, it is a destination worth exploring once it reopens its doors.
Uncover a Tragic Love Story at Quinta das Lágrimas Gardens
Nestled around the former royal palace, which now houses Coimbra’s only 5-star hotel, are the enchanting Quinta das Lágrimas Gardens. These gardens hold a poignant tale of star-crossed lovers, intertwining the narrative of Pedro and Inês, whom I have mentioned earlier in this article. The captivating follies and features within these grounds pay tribute to the intense romance shared between Prince Pedro and Inês de Castro, a handmaiden to his wife. To delve deeper into this heartrending story, I recommend embarking on a guided tour, as it will enrich your experience of these gardens.
By mentioning my code “JULIE5” when booking, you can avail a 5% discount on the Riverside and Tales of Love tour offered by GoWalks, or any of their Coimbra tours.
Explore Subterranean Wonders at Museu Nacional Machado de Castro
Among the myriad of museums, the Machado de Castro National Museum in Coimbra holds a special place. After undergoing extensive remodeling, the museum reopened in 2012 and was honored with UNESCO status in 2019. Beneath its modern facade lie the cool, dimly lit tunnels of a 2,000-year-old Roman cryptoportico, offering a fascinating underground experience.
The ground floor of the museum showcases an impressive collection of stone sculptures from the Coimbra region, spanning from the 11th to the 18th century. Descending to the lower levels, you’ll encounter a captivating display of wooden and terracotta sculptures. As you ascend to the upper floors, a treasure trove awaits, featuring remarkable gold jewelry, intriguing religious relics (with an occasional eerie touch), an extensive collection of religious oil paintings, as well as captivating ceramics and furniture.
Plan to allocate a couple of hours to fully immerse yourself in the museum’s four levels. Should you feel the need to refuel during your visit, a café and restaurant provide excellent views overlooking the old cathedral and the river.
Museu Nacional Machado de Castro is located at the corner of Rua São João and Rua do Norte, opposite Largo de Sé Nova. The museum’s opening hours are as follows: October to March (10:00 to 12:30 and 14:00 to 18:00), and April to September (10:00 to 18:00).
In summary, Quinta das Lágrimas Gardens offer a captivating glimpse into a tragic love story, while Museu Nacional Machado de Castro beckons with its subterranean wonders and an impressive collection spanning various artistic mediums. Immerse yourself in the richness of Coimbra’s cultural heritage through these remarkable attractions.
Discover the Medieval City Walls at Núcleo da Cidade Muralhada
Within the historical center of Coimbra, fragments of the city’s original medieval walls can be found, offering a glimpse into its rich past. To delve deeper into the significance of these walls, make your way to the Núcleo da Cidade Muralhada, also known as the Walled City Center.
For a small fee, you can immerse yourself in a short film that explains the historical context of the city walls. The film is available in multiple languages, so be patient and wait for the version that you understand. Additionally, a model showcases how the walls once protected the city, highlighting the remaining sections that can still be observed today.
Afterward, take a stroll around the Almedina Gate tower, which provides breathtaking views of Coimbra and offers a unique perspective of the street below through a section of glass flooring. One of the rooms within the tower provides insight into the history of the royal palace, which underwent a transformation into the renowned university in the 16th century.
The Núcleo da Cidade Muralhada is open from Tuesday to Saturday, with operating hours from 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm.
Embark on this journey through time, exploring the medieval city walls and gaining a deeper understanding of Coimbra’s fascinating history at the Núcleo da Cidade Muralhada.
Indulge in Art and Interior Decor at Edificio Chiado
While strolling along the bustling main shopping street in downtown Coimbra, keep an eye out for the ornate metalwork adorning the exterior of Edificio Chiado. This former department store houses a delightful mix of art and interior decor. The lower floor is dedicated to captivating temporary exhibitions, which you can enter for free. If you have the time, it’s worth exploring the upper two floors, which can be accessed for a nominal fee.
The exhibition space on the upper floors, though somewhat compact, showcases a diverse range of artwork, including some truly remarkable pieces. Additionally, you’ll find period furniture and ceramics from both China and Portugal, adding an extra layer of charm to the experience.
Edificio Chiado is located at Rua Ferreira Borges 85 and welcomes visitors from Tuesday to Sunday, between 10 am and 6 pm. Note that there is a brief closure for lunch between 1 pm and 2 pm on Saturdays and Sundays.
Immerse Yourself in Sculptures and Exquisitely Furnished Rooms at Casa Museu Bissaya Barreto
Situated opposite the botanical gardens and just before the Arcos de São Sebastião, you’ll discover Casa Museu Bissaya Barreto. This historic house once belonged to Fernando Bissaya Barreto, a renowned university professor, doctor, and philanthropist. Upon entering, you’ll be greeted by a high white wall, concealing a remarkable garden adorned with sculptures and painted tiles known as azulejos. Even if you choose not to explore the house museum itself, taking a moment to admire the artwork displayed in the grounds is a worthwhile endeavor.
Inside the house, the meticulously preserved furnished interior provides a glimpse into the life of a prominent figure in Portuguese society. Each room offers a unique perspective, showcasing the elegance and style of a bygone era. Some of these rooms also serve as venues for temporary exhibitions and other cultural events, adding an element of vibrancy to the space.
Immerse yourself in the captivating sculptures, wander through the beautifully furnished rooms, and soak up the cultural ambiance at Casa Museu Bissaya Barreto.
Experience the Gothic Marvel of Santa Clara-a-Velha Convent
When I first arrived in Coimbra back in 2007, I witnessed an ongoing endeavor to excavate the 14th-century Santa Clara-a-Velha Convent from layers of accumulated mud caused by centuries of flooding. By 2009, the majestic golden sandstone had been restored to its former glory, with a new museum and walkways connecting the ancient structure to the modern facilities.
While the Gothic convent bears traces of ruin, it stands strong enough to host concerts and events, offering visitors a delightful stroll through history. However, I advise against choosing the hottest day of the year, as my friend Mike and I did, unless you wish to be scorched by the sun while exploring the vast grounds.
During our visit to the museum, we were fortunate to witness a temporary exhibition showcasing the archaeological discoveries from the convent’s cemetery, shedding light on the intriguing lives of the Poor Clare nuns and the societal changes they experienced. It was fascinating to see how much information could be gleaned from studying their teeth, revealing insights into their lifestyle and the transformations of the era.
The permanent exhibitions at the museum feature a plethora of artifacts, exploring subjects such as medieval medicine, illnesses, religious art, and architectural marvels. Additionally, the museum houses a pleasant café where you can enjoy a daily lunch special and savor delicious salads.
Santa Clara-a-Velha Convent welcomes visitors from Tuesday to Sunday, between 10 am and 5 pm. It’s important to note that the entrance is located in the modern museum building, accessible via Rua Parreiras, rather than the ancient church.
Witness the Timeless Beauty of the Arcos de São Sebastião Aqueduct
The Arcos de São Sebastião, affectionately known as Arcos do Jardim among the locals, unveils the grandeur of the Saint Sebastian aqueduct. Constructed in the 16th century, this architectural marvel was built atop the remnants of an ancient Roman aqueduct. Its primary purpose was to supply water to the castle situated atop the hill and various areas of the upper city, known as Alta.
As you venture along the arches, a picturesque path leads you alongside the enchanting botanical gardens, eventually guiding you to the esteemed university. From the botanical gardens’ side, you’ll be treated to a sight of a magnificent statue of St. Sebastian, proudly displayed in the niche above the first arch.
Prepare to be captivated by the timeless allure of the Arcos de São Sebastião aqueduct—a testament to the rich history and architectural prowess of Coimbra.
Immerse Yourself in Local History at Casa Costa Lobo, Over Tea and Pastries
Step into Casa Costa Lobo, a medieval residence that has been home to the same family for five generations. Now, they graciously open their doors to visitors, offering a unique experience of tea and delectable pastries while delving into the rich tapestry of their family history.
Guided by one of the twin sisters, you’ll embark on a captivating tour of their ancestral home. With pride, they share the remarkable stories of their distinguished ancestors, including the renowned astrophysicist, Francisco Miranda da Costa Lobo.
As you explore each room, adorned with meticulous decor, you’ll discover how family symbols were intricately woven into the very fabric of the house. These exquisite designs were masterfully conceived by acclaimed scenographer Pereira Cão in the 19th century. Living in the house for three years, Pereira Cão took the first year to acquaint himself with the family and meticulously craft his decorative visions for their cherished abode.
The visit culminates with a delightful spread of refreshments, either in the cozy family living room or, weather permitting, amidst the serene ambiance of the garden. Savor the flavors while engaging in meaningful conversations, immersing yourself in the rich heritage of Casa Costa Lobo.
Embark on a Whirlwind Tour of Coimbra’s Monuments through Captivating Azulejo Panels
For a captivating overview of Coimbra’s rich historical buildings, look no further than the wall opposite the Municipal Market. Adorning this wall are a series of hand-painted tile panels that offer a visual journey through the city’s architectural treasures. Not only are these panels a sight to behold, but they also provide a glimpse of what awaits you during your exploration of Coimbra’s magnificent landmarks. Whether you have the opportunity to visit them all or simply admire them from afar, these panels offer a delightful introduction to the city’s cultural heritage.
Uncover Hidden Beauty in the Courtyard of the Courthouse
While waiting for the wheels of justice to turn at the Palácio da Justiça, take a moment to indulge in the splendor of the courtyard. Within its confines, you’ll find painted tile panels that depict significant episodes and legends from Portuguese history. These artistic masterpieces enhance the ambiance and make the wait more bearable, immersing you in the captivating narratives that have shaped the nation. To access the courtyard, kindly approach the security guard who can assist you in admiring the captivating tiles.
The Palácio da Justiça is open from Monday to Friday, welcoming visitors from 9:30 am to 12:30 pm and 1:30 pm to 4 pm. Please remember to inquire with the security guard about accessing the courtyard for a sneak peek at these remarkable tiles.
Admire the Yellow Domes at Jardim da Manga
Standing proudly at the base of Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes, Jardim da Manga beckons with its striking yellow domes and arches. Since 1528, these architectural wonders have adorned this serene space. Serving as the first example of Renaissance architecture in Coimbra, this charming garden, with its central fountain, was once part of the cloisters of the Santa Cruz monastery. The name “Manga,” meaning sleeve in Portuguese, derives from the tale that King João III sketched the design for the decorative fountain on his sleeve during a visit to the monastery. Don’t miss the opportunity to witness this historical gem.
Discover a Fusion of Architectural Styles at Sé Velha
Nestled amidst the labyrinthine medieval streets that grace the hillside, Sé Velha (Old Cathedral) stands as a testament to Coimbra’s rich heritage. Dating back to the early days of Portugal as a country, this grand cathedral was commissioned when the first King of Portugal, Afonso Henriques, chose Coimbra as his capital in the 12th century. The cathedral’s Romanesque architecture, evident in the intricate stonework around the doorway, reflects the style of the time. Subsequent additions in the 16th century introduced ornate Renaissance side doorways, beautifully blending different architectural influences. Fortunately, the original structure remained largely untouched during these renovations.
Step inside and behold the treasures that await. For a small entrance fee of €2, you can explore the cathedral’s interior adorned with exquisite Seville tiles and a captivating Gothic altarpiece. Within the cathedral, you’ll also discover the tomb of Sisnando Davides, the first Governor of Coimbra, housed in a somewhat dim chamber. Allow yourself to be captivated by the fusion of architectural styles and the rich history that permeates Sé Velha.
Santa Cruz Church and Café: A Historical Gem
Santa Cruz Church is a remarkable monument that traces its origins back to the time of King Afonso Henriques, one of the first kings of Portugal. This revered site served as the final resting place for two Portuguese kings. Despite being located outside the original city walls, the Santa Cruz monastery held immense significance during its time, establishing itself as the most important religious institution of its kind.
Although the Romanesque roots of the church have vanished due to a comprehensive renovation commissioned by King Manuel in the 16th century, the site remains a prominent attraction in Coimbra. While the intricate sculptures adorning the church doorway have weathered the passage of time, their grandeur still captivates visitors. Venturing inside is a must, as it offers a glimpse into the church’s interior features and captivating artwork.
After exploring the church, don’t forget to visit the adjacent Café Santa Cruz. Immerse yourself in a medieval ambiance as you savor refreshments, allowing yourself a moment of relaxation and contemplation in this enchanting setting.
Indulge in the Vibrant Atmosphere of Coimbra Municipal Market
As you may recall, I mentioned the exquisite tile panels opposite the market, but the market itself is an experience not to be missed. Here, you can immerse yourself in the vibrant colors and flavors of local culture. The market stalls are spread across two levels within an atrium-style building, creating a lively and bustling atmosphere.
For the best experience, it is recommended to visit in the morning when the market is brimming with an impressive display of fresh fish and produce. After lunchtime, many stallholders begin to pack up for the day, so an earlier visit ensures you don’t miss out on the full market experience.
Located on Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes, the Coimbra Municipal Market welcomes visitors from Monday to Saturday, operating from 7 am to 7 pm. Additionally, you’ll find the new Praça da Restauração, a food hall on the first floor, offering a diverse selection of dining options, including a brewery. These exciting dining spaces are open until midnight from Monday to Wednesday and until 2 am from Thursday to Saturday, providing a delightful culinary adventure that extends into the late hours.
Immerse yourself in the sights, scents, and flavors of Coimbra Municipal Market, embracing the vibrant heart of local culture.
Uncover Coimbra’s Unique Fado Tradition
While fado, Portugal’s haunting folk music, originated in Lisbon’s Alfama district, Coimbra developed its own distinct version. As students from various regions converged in this university city, they brought their own musical traditions, which intertwined with the local custom of serenading loved ones in the streets, giving birth to Coimbra fado.
In the early days, Coimbra fado was exclusively sung by male performers, adorned in the iconic black university capes. The lyrics often revolved around themes of love, whether for a woman, university life, or political matters. It became a poignant expression of emotions intertwined with the unique atmosphere of Coimbra.
A must-visit for fado enthusiasts, Fado ao Centro is a venue run by passionate fadistas who offer daily performances at 6 pm. Immerse yourself in the enchanting ambiance as they provide a brief history of the genre and captivate the audience with live performances in an intimate setting. Due to its popularity among both visitors and local fado enthusiasts, it is advisable to book your tickets in advance. Secure your spot online to ensure a memorable experience at Rua Quebra Costas 7.
Step into History at the Patio da Inquisição
While the remnants of the Inquisition Court’s chilling acts in the 16th century may not be overtly visible, the Patio da Inquisição serves as a chilling reminder of its grim past. This square once stood as the headquarters of the Christian order entrusted with the task of identifying and punishing heretics and enemies of the church, with many suspects being individuals of Jewish descent, often denounced by their Christian neighbors.
As you explore the square, you may notice an uneven stone near the far corner, believed to have been the beheading block. Passing through the archway, you can catch a glimpse of the excavated sections of the former jails, offering a glimpse into the dark history of this place. Beyond these remnants, one must rely on imagination to contemplate the gruesome events that unfolded within these walls.
Allow your mind to wander and reflect on the haunting past of the Patio da Inquisição, conjuring vivid images of the punishments and trials that transpired within this historical site.
Explore the Charm of Portugal at Portugal dos Pequenitos
Established in 1940, Portugal dos Pequenitos, also known as ‘Little Portugal,’ holds the distinction of being the oldest Portuguese theme park. However, it differs from the traditional notion of theme parks. It is essentially a playground where all the buildings are miniature replicas of Portugal’s architectural heritage, meticulously designed to be child-sized.
This unique attraction captivates visitors of all ages, offering a delightful opportunity to learn about Portuguese history in a fun and interactive way. As you stroll through the park, you’ll witness both adults and children immersed in the rich cultural heritage of Portugal.
For detailed information about visiting hours and ticket prices, refer to our comprehensive guide.
Indulge in Feline Affection at Pet & Tea Cat Café
Unless you have allergies, it’s difficult to resist the adorable and playful kittens at Coimbra’s beloved cat café. For a nominal fee of €5, you gain access to the cat playroom, accompanied by a refreshing drink and an abundance of fluffy cuddles.
Beyond the sheer joy of spending time with these lovable feline companions, your contribution directly supports their well-being, as well as the care and treatment of other abandoned cats. If you reside in Portugal, you even have the opportunity to provide a forever home by adopting one or two of these adorable furry friends.
Visit Pet & Tea Cat Café at Rua João Cabreira, 4. They are open from 9 am to 8 pm on weekdays, from 10:30 am to 8 pm on Saturdays, and remain closed on Sundays.
