Located an hour north of Lisbon, Leiria is a charming university town nestled beneath its medieval castle. Once a formidable fortress, it was transformed into a magnificent palace by the influential rulers, Kings John I and Denis I. Not far from Leiria lies the renowned Batalha Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site and an integral part of Portugal’s cultural heritage.
Exploring Leiria, you’ll find bustling city squares and ancient churches, as well as museums dedicated to the traditional crafts of printing and glassmaking. During the summer months, when temperatures soar, a scenic drive westward will bring you to the picturesque coastline. There, you can enjoy expansive sandy beaches and the refreshing Atlantic breeze.
Leiria Castle
Leiria Castle stands as a remarkable testament to the blending of medieval fortification and regal splendor, ranking among Portugal’s most illustrious castles. It underwent three distinct building phases, each contributing to its unique appearance and function.
The castle’s initial construction took place during the reconquest of Portugal from the Moors under the reign of its first king, Afonso Henriques. Subsequently, during the 14th and 15th centuries, Gothic extensions were added by Kings Denis I and John I. These additions included an elegant palace that seamlessly connected to the keep, serving as a royal residence.
One of the castle’s captivating features is the loggia, which was completed in the early 15th century under the patronage of King John.
Museum of Moving Images (Museu da Imagem em Movimento)
Nestled within the castle walls, the Museum of Moving Images was established in 1996 within the former stables. The museum’s founding year was not chosen randomly but rather to commemorate a century of filmmaking in Portugal.
Its primary objective is to preserve and exhibit recording, editing, and presentation equipment spanning various eras. Movie enthusiasts will be captivated by the collection of vintage cameras, lights, and projectors, as well as more primitive devices like zoetropes. Additionally, the museum houses pianos from silent movie theaters, antique cinema ticket machines, vintage reel canisters, and even offers interactive games for children.
Leiria Museum
Having reached a century in existence, the Leiria Museum has undergone various relocations throughout the city before finally settling in the historic Convent of Santo Agostinho. Its exhibition is thoughtfully organized chronologically, and the prehistoric section is particularly captivating. Visitors can marvel at fossils discovered in Guimarota, showcasing animals that lived 150 million years ago, as well as the remains of the “Menino do Lapedo,” a child from the Upper Paleolithic era found in Lapedo Valley. The museum also houses Iron Age ceramics, artifacts from the Roman city of Collipo, and religious art from dissolved convents and churches.
Leiria Cathedral
Recognized as a Portuguese National Monument, Leiria Cathedral dates back to the 16th century and exhibits a Mannerist exterior with Classical and Baroque interiors. Like many other buildings in Leiria, it endured the destructive forces of the 1755 earthquake, which nearly caused its collapse. Consequently, the cathedral was rebuilt with sturdy buttresses, attesting to its resilience. Further challenges came in 1810 during the Peninsular War, when a fire ravaged its interiors. Thus, the cathedral stands not only as a remarkable architectural marvel but also as a testament to the adversities faced by Leiria. Inside, visitors can admire the resplendent gilded Baroque altar, adding a touch of magnificence to the overall experience.
Moinho do Papel
Situated on the banks of the Lis River, Moinho do Papel is a medieval paper mill with roots dating back to 1411, as mentioned in King John I’s royal charter. It holds the distinction of being the first documented paper mill in the country. In 1496, it played a significant role in shaping the local printing industry when a Hebrew scholar’s Almanach Perpetuum became one of Portugal’s earliest printed books. Prior to that, the mill was primarily utilized for grinding grain and producing oil. In 2009, the interior underwent restoration, reviving each of its former functions. However, the most captivating aspect is witnessing the transformation of pulp and fabric into sheets of paper right before your eyes.
Praça Rodrigues Lobo
Located at the heart of Leiria, Praça Rodrigues Lobo is a vibrant square that serves as the focal point of the city’s nightlife. It’s a convivial spot where one can take a brief respite, savor a coffee or a refreshing beverage. The square offers a picturesque view, with glimpses of Leiria’s castle walls rising above the buildings to the north. The square is named in honor of Rodrigues Lobo, one of Leiria’s most renowned figures—a poet from the early 17th century. Despite being born into wealth, Lobo chose to portray the lives of humble farmers working alongside the Lena and Lis Rivers through his writings. A statue commemorating Lobo was erected in the southwest corner of the square in 1923.
Church of São Pedro
Located near the castle, the Church of São Pedro is a captivating Romanesque church constructed during the same period. It briefly served as Leiria’s cathedral but fell into disuse after the 17th century, experiencing various transformations as a theater, barn, and even a prison. Despite its diverse history, it is remarkable that much of the 12th and 13th-century carvings on the exterior have survived. Your attention will be drawn to the main portal, adorned with animal sculptures on the corbels supporting the cornice. Below, the archivolts are adorned with intricate vegetal motifs and human faces.
School Museum
Situated in Marrazes, a few minutes east of the center of Leiria, the School Museum provides insight into Portuguese school life during the 19th and 20th centuries. It originated as a project initiated by local teachers to educate students about the bygone days of schooling. As the collection grew, a separate building was designated as a museum. Inside, you’ll find an array of fascinating artifacts, including furniture, antique toys, books, and everyday items such as slates, blackboards, erasers, clocks, and crosses from the classroom. The museum is divided into eight distinct rooms, each dedicated to different subjects like carpentry and geology or specific time periods such as the end of the monarchy, the First Republic, and the Dictatorship.
Pinhal de Leiria
As you depart from the western outskirts of Leiria towards the villages of Marinha Grande and Vieira Leiria, you’ll encounter a tranquil wooded landscape that may appear entirely natural. However, human intervention played a significant role in shaping this setting. The Pinhal de Leiria, an expansive forest spanning 11,000 hectares, was planted with stone pines during the 13th-century reign of King Afonso III. Its purpose was to safeguard Leiria and its agricultural land from encroaching sand dunes driven by coastal winds. Visitors can explore these dunes located on the forest’s edge.
During the Age of Discovery, the forest played a crucial role by providing ample pine and resin for Portugal’s formidable fleet that conquered new territories around the world. The Pinhal de Leiria offers scenic viewpoints, open clearings with picnic benches, cycling trails, and the rejuvenating banks of the River Moel.
Batalha Monastery
A mere 15 minutes south of Leiria lies the esteemed Batalha Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Portugal’s most cherished architectural marvels. King John I commissioned its construction to commemorate the Christian victory over the Moors in the Battle of Aljubarrota in 1385. The monastery’s church, royal cloister, unfinished chapels, and chapter house all warrant ample time for exploration.
What sets this monument apart is the opulence and intricacy of its carvings, executed in the Gothic and early-15th-century Manueline styles. This unique architectural blend combines elements of High Gothic, Spanish Plateresque, and Moorish influences, resulting in a distinctly Portuguese masterpiece. The Founders’ Chapel is an absolute highlight, housing the tombs of John I and his wife, Philippa, as well as the tomb of the 15th-century explorer, Henry the Navigator.
Glass Museum
Just a short journey west of Leiria, on the way to the coast, you’ll find the town of Marinha Grande nestled within a fragrant pine forest that has long utilized its abundant sand to produce glass. Marinha Grande remains Portugal’s largest glass manufacturer, blending traditional techniques with modern molding facilities. The museum is housed in an 18th-century palace once owned by William Stephens, an English immigrant who oversaw the Royal Glassworks in Marinha Grande during the 1770s. Inside, you can marvel at exquisite artistic glazing, antique glasses, and vases dating back to the 18th century, as well as items crafted in Portugal’s other glassmaking centers from the 1600s onwards.
São Pedro de Moel Beach
If you yearn for the refreshing ocean breeze and a picturesque beach to unwind on, you’re in for a treat at the charming coastal village of São Pedro de Moel, located less than 20 kilometers away. The drive to the village takes you through the enchanting pine forest, while the village itself boasts numerous examples of 19th-century architecture, including the former residence of the renowned poet Afonso Lopes Vieira from the turn of the century. The ocean waters here, even in summer, are cool and not ideal for casual swimmers or young children. As part of the Atlantic Coast, São Pedro de Moel is better suited for surfers and bodyboarders. However, the true allure lies in the vast beach itself, with its pristine white sand, breathtaking rocky outcrops, and towering cliffs crowned by a majestic lighthouse, creating a truly invigorating environment.
Praia de Paredes da Vitória
Another beach that deserves your attention is located just a few kilometers from São Pedro de Moel. Praia de Paredes da Vitória offers a tranquil escape without the intrusion of mass tourism. Here, you’ll find a quaint village nestled along a stretch of cliffs adorned with lush vegetation. The soft, pale sand stretches endlessly in both directions, inviting leisurely walks along the shoreline. The village provides convenient facilities to ensure a comfortable day under the sun. It’s worth mentioning the remarkable cliffs of Paredes da Vitória, composed of limestone and sandstone formations that preserve fossils dating back to the Lower Jurassic Period, approximately 200 million years ago.
Fátima
A mere 20-minute drive southeast leads you to Portugal’s most cherished pilgrimage site, Fátima. This holy destination originated from reported Marian apparitions witnessed by shepherd children a century ago. A sanctuary was constructed in this idyllic location, nestled amidst hills standing 350 meters above sea level. People from all corners of the globe undertake the pilgrimage to Fátima, and even for non-religious visitors, it offers a unique opportunity to witness the gathering of Christian devotees. The initial sightings were reported on May 13th, making this date particularly bustling in Fátima. However, any 13th day between May and October draws significant crowds, with October commemorating the final apparition of Mary at this sacred site.
Local Gastronomy
While exploring the charming old center of Leiria, take a peek through the bakery windows and you’ll spot brightly colored orange sweets nestled in delicate paper cake cases. These delightful treats are a local specialty known as Brisas do Lis, crafted from a delightful blend of egg yolk, sugar, and almonds. Originally created by nuns at the now-closed Santana Convent, these sweets are a true indulgence.
For those craving savory flavors, be sure to try the typical dish of morcela de arroz. This unique delicacy is a type of black pudding made with a mixture of pig’s blood, rice, pork meat, and an array of aromatic herbs and spices.
To experience a traditional local meal, sample dishes such as bacalhau com migas (cod baked with breadcrumbs), deep-fried whitebait, succulent suckling pig, or the hearty chanfana—a flavorful stew made with goat or lamb.
Leiria is also renowned for its wines from the Encostas de Aire wine DOC. This region is celebrated for its light reds and fruity whites, offering a perfect complement to the local cuisine.
