In the 1200s, Óbidos, a charming town in Portugal, became the residence of the country’s queens when Afonso II gifted it to his wife, Urraca of León. Many of the town’s structures and landmarks were established or supported by a queen. The town sits on a narrow ridge, with its winding streets free of cars, surrounded by the towering walls of a medieval castle.
Visitors can stroll along the picturesque alleys, stopping in at museums and churches, and perusing artisan shops. To experience the town’s history, one can climb the walls and survey the fertile valley of vineyards and cherry orchards, much like a guard would have done centuries ago.
Historic Óbidos
Explore the charming town of Óbidos by passing through the Porta da Vila, where you’ll find a picturesque historic scene that looks like a movie set. The white houses with blue or yellow borders and bougainvillea creeping up the sides add to the authentic feel. As you stroll along Rua Direita, you’ll be tempted to wander down the side streets and stairways leading to hidden corners of the town. To avoid the crowds, visit Óbidos early in the morning or later in the evening. However, if you don’t mind the hustle and bustle, take your time and browse through souvenir shops or grab a bite at a restaurant or ice cream parlor that catches your eye.
Óbidos Castle
Located to the north of Óbidos, the Óbidos Castle was founded by the Moors as early as the 700s and has been reworked several times over the centuries. Although it’s now a heritage hotel, you can still access the battlements and walk the perimeter of the walls that protect the town. Don’t miss the opportunity to take in the breathtaking views of the town, castle, vineyards, and orchards from the west wall.
Igreja de Santa Maria
Igreja de Santa Maria, located on the main square of Óbidos, was founded in 1148 by King Afonso Henriques after he recaptured the town from the Moors. Although the medieval building suffered damage from several earthquakes, it has been reconstructed in a Mannerist style. The interior walls are covered with tiles from the 1600s and 1700s, and the Renaissance tomb of João de Noronha in the Chapel of our Lady of Mercy, crafted by French sculptors Jean de Rouen and Nicolas Chantereine, is a must-see attraction.
Praça de Santa Maria
Take some time to explore the square in front of the church, as there are some interesting sights to be found. One such sight is the pillory, a monument that symbolizes the town’s independence and served as a place to punish criminals. This structure dates back to the 1400s and features the coat of arms of Eleanor of Viseu, with a net symbolizing the fisherman’s net in which her infant son was wrapped after drowning in the Tagus River. Below the pillory is a 16th-century fountain, which was once supplied by the town’s aqueduct. On the north side of the square stands the Telheiro, a building recognized by its portico with six columns, which formerly served as the town’s indoor market until the 1900s.
Santuário do Senhor Jesus da Pedra
Located to the north of Óbidos, this hexagonal sanctuary is worth a visit for its stone cross on the altar, which features a primitive image of the crucifixion. The cross is very old and has been dated to the 2nd or 3rd centuries. It was already in place here long before the construction of this Baroque church. According to legend, Queen Eleanor of Viseu placed the cross nearby in the 1500s to mark the way to Caldas da Rainha, the hot springs she founded. It was forgotten until a farmer rediscovered it in 1730, attracting a new generation of devotees and resulting in the completion of the church in 1737.
Museu Municipal de Óbidos
Where there was royalty, there was also culture and art, and much of this can be found at the town’s municipal museum. The museum houses a collection of paintings from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries by artists such as the Mannerists Diogo Texeira and Belchior de Matos. The museum also showcases the works of Josefa de Óbidos, a Spanish Baroque painter who was a favorite of Queen Maria Francisca of Savoy in the 1600s. Additionally, the museum displays weapons from the Peninsular War, a timeline of Óbidos throughout the centuries, and a room featuring finds from the excavated Roman city of Eurobrittium.
Lagoa de Obidos
Located west of Obidos, Lagoa de Obidos is a beautiful body of water that fills a depression for about four kilometers before it meets the ocean. Tourists are drawn to the two long sandy spits on the coast, with Foz do Arelho to the north and a quaint community of fishing cottages and holiday villas to the south. At Praia do Bom Sucesso and Praia do Mar, visitors can enjoy either the lagoon’s calm waters or the invigorating power of the Atlantic.
Porta da Vila
The southern gate of Obidos is home to a small Baroque chapel that dates back to 1246. The chapel was built after the town repelled a siege by the forces of Sancho II against his brother, Afonso III. The chapel, as it stands today, was constructed in 1727 and boasts an ornate altar, chancel, and choir. The walls are coated with azulejos, and the ceiling is painted with filigrees. The works were funded by Bernardo de Palma, a magistrate based in India, whose daughter is said to have died of a broken heart due to unrequited love for a man from Obidos.
Igreja Santa Casa da Misericordia de Obidos
The Church of Santa Casa da Misericordia de Obidos was founded by Eleanor of Viseu at the end of the 15th century and is filled with precious artwork and fittings. As you enter, you’ll be greeted by a ceramic image of the Virgin and Child, produced by a Lisbon workshop between 1665 and 1680. The wooden doors below were carved in 1623. The single nave is adorned with blue and yellow geometric tiles painted in the 1620s, and the tribune is surrounded by Mannerist carvings from the same period. Take a moment to appreciate the two Baroque masterpieces by Andre Reinoso in the retable: The Visitation of the Virgin to Saint Elizabeth and the Pentecost.
Caldas da Rainha
This town is closely linked to Óbidos, and a five-minute train ride from Óbidos will take you there. Caldas da Rainha, which means “Springs of the Queen,” was established in the 1400s when Eleanor of Viseu built a church and hospital next to its hot springs. Today, people still visit the springs for their sulfurous water, which is said to have therapeutic properties. For tourists, the first stop is the sophisticated 19th-century park next to the spa. There is also an excellent museum dedicated to the naturalist painter José Malhoa. The town’s clay-rich soil has been used for pottery since Neolithic times, and visitors can see dozens of workshops and a museum showcasing the works of Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, a master potter from the 19th century.
Aqueduto de Óbidos
The aqueduct was commissioned by Catherine of Austria in the 1570s and was designed to transport water from a source in Usseira, about six kilometers to the south. The aqueduct, which was mostly underground for half of its length, ended at the Chafariz Real (Royal Fountain) on Praça de Santa Maria and served as the main water supply for the town for over two centuries. Its high arches were repaired twice, once at the end of the 1600s and again a century later. The most impressive section is located at the southern entrance to Óbidos.
Igreja de São Pedro
St. Peter’s church dates back to the medieval era and was consecrated at the beginning of the 14th century. Unfortunately, the building was destroyed by the 1755 Lisbon Earthquake that caused extensive damage throughout the country. The only surviving piece of decoration was the delicate gilt-wood altar, which features a majestic throne flanked by angels and was completed in 1705. The tower and its spiral stairway are also from the original building. The rest of the church is relatively bare, except for the tall painting in the chancel depicting St. Peter receiving the Keys of Heaven from Jesus.
Medieval Market of Óbidos
As the former residence of queens, Óbidos is the perfect place for a medieval market and fair. This spectacular event runs from the middle of July to August and takes place in the upper part of town, next to the castle’s west wall, creating a truly atmospheric setting. Along with freshly prepared food, visitors can browse through a variety of handicrafts such as jewelry, scarves, pottery, and even novelty weapons, all while being entertained by jesters, dancers, and minstrels. The event also features re-enactments and jousts with skilled stuntmen.
Ginja
The souvenir shops of Rua Direita are plentiful in Óbidos, but for an authentic local product, visitors should try ginja, a sour cherry liqueur. Ginja is produced throughout the Lisbon area, but Óbidos has a unique way of making it. Cherries are picked from orchards in the town’s countryside and left to macerate for at least one year, producing an intense ruby-colored liqueur without any added dyes or preservatives. It’s often served in an edible chocolate cup, as it pairs perfectly with dark chocolate.
International Chocolate Festival of Óbidos
For around three weeks from mid-March to early-April, Óbidos is taken over by a chocolate festival. Each year has a different theme; for example, the 2017 theme was “music.” At Praça da Tablete, visitors could see chocolate sculptures of famous artists like Michael Jackson, Bob Dylan, James Brown, and Madonna, made by master chocolatiers. The square also features live entertainment, workshops, demonstrations, and tasting events, where chefs and confectioners from all over the world show off their skills.
