TOP THINGS TO DO IN SETUBAL

by Miguel Gluton

Setúbal: A Hidden Gem of Scenic Beauty and Cultural Delights

Nestled along a picturesque bay where the Sado River meets the sea, Setúbal emerges as a vibrant city that thrived on its fishing industry throughout the 20th century.

Although primarily known to Portuguese tourists, this captivating destination is poised to attract a wave of international visitors eager to explore its abundant offerings.

Prepare to be enthralled by Setúbal’s architectural wonders, including the awe-inspiring Manueline monastery, charming churches, renowned market brimming with local delights, and captivating museums that showcase the city’s rich history.

Venturing beyond the city limits reveals an even more enchanting panorama. The untouched beaches of the Arrábida Nature Park beckon with their pristine beauty, while the nearby Praia de Tróia, boasting a tropical ambiance, invites visitors to relax in its coastal splendor, just a bay away.

Of course, in a town so deeply rooted in fishing traditions, the seafood scene is nothing short of divine. Indulge your taste buds with delectable delicacies harvested from the nearby waters.

And as a special treat, embark on a unique cruise experience to encounter a pod of dolphins residing in the estuary. These majestic creatures offer a captivating encounter that will surely leave an indelible mark on your memories.

Setúbal, a hidden gem of scenic beauty and cultural delights, awaits your discovery. It won’t be long before the world recognizes the allure of this captivating Portuguese destination.

Monastery of Jesus: A Majestic Manueline Masterpiece

Step into the enchanting world of the Monastery of Jesus, an awe-inspiring architectural marvel crafted by Diogo de Boitaca, the pioneer of Portugal’s Manueline style. This magnificent structure, dating back to the early 16th century, stands as a testament to the ingenuity of its time.

From the square in front of the monastery, marvel at the intricate details that adorn its buttresses, including mesmerizing gargoyles. Observe the subtle contrast in shape between the nave and the apse, a distinguishing feature of this remarkable building.

Once inside, be captivated by the exquisite ribbed vaulting in the choir, a true masterpiece of craftsmanship. Another delightful aspect to behold is the charming azulejos, with geometric patterns adorning the apse and scenes from the life of Mary adorning the nave.

Arrábida Natural Park: Nature’s Haven of Tranquility

Embrace the vast natural beauty of Arrábida Natural Park, an expansive wilderness that encompasses the majestic Serra da Arrábida mountain range and stretches all the way to the tranquil village of Sesimbra, 30 kilometers southwest of the town.

Here, every beach exudes a serene and unspoiled ambiance, untouched by intrusive holiday complexes. Delight in the peaceful atmosphere as you explore the pristine shores, such as the secluded Praia do Creiro. With its southward orientation, these beaches escape the full force of the Atlantic, providing a more gentle and inviting coastal experience.

For seasoned hikers, an exhilarating adventure awaits in the Serra do Risco, mainland Portugal’s highest cliff towering 380 meters above the Atlantic. Every step is rewarded with breathtaking scenery that will leave an indelible impression.

Quinta da Bacalhoa: A Harmony of History and Wine

Nestled on the northwestern edge of the Arrábida Natural Park lies the captivating Quinta da Bacalhoa, an exquisite estate that has gracefully endured the test of time since the early 16th century. Today, it serves as a thriving wine estate, adding a dual allure to its appeal.

Embark on a guided tour of the quinta and immerse yourself in its architectural splendor. Admire the graceful domes, elegant loggia, and the splendid waterside pavilion, adorned with arcades and resplendent Spanish geometric tiles dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries.

Continue your journey by visiting the winery and museum, where the secrets of winemaking unfold before your eyes. Conclude your visit with a delightful tasting session, savoring the flavors of this exceptional estate in a truly enchanting setting.

Mercado do Livramento: A Vibrant Gastronomic Haven

Just a few streets away from the harbor lies the exquisite Art Deco marvel, Mercado do Livramento. Unveiled in 1930, this divine market hall has garnered worldwide acclaim and rightfully earned its place among the best fish markets globally, as proudly proclaimed by signs within the market.

Step into a bustling atmosphere that comes alive on busy days, where friendly and animated vendors eagerly assist you in discovering the finest culinary treasures.

Indulge in a shopping spree for an array of fresh fruits, vegetables, fragrant flowers, delectable cheeses, and cured ham. However, the true star of the show is the captivating display of fish and seafood, an unparalleled assortment that will leave you in awe, stacked high on the vibrant counters.

Praia de Tróia: A Tranquil Paradise

No visit to Setúbal is complete without taking a ferry ride to the idyllic Praia de Tróia, located at the tip of the Tróia Peninsula. Shielded from ocean currents, this beach offers a serene oasis with calm, crystal-clear waters gently caressing its soft, white sands.

Transport yourself to a Caribbean-like scene, where the only reminder of being in Europe is the slightly chilly water temperature. Although a hotel and casino complex grace the backdrop of the beach, the remote location ensures that the resort remains untouched by crowds, as it would take a leisurely 90-minute drive from Setúbal to reach this blissful destination.

Igreja de São Julião: A Tapestry of Timeless Beauty

Rooted in the 13th century, Setúbal’s main church, Igreja de São Julião, showcases an architectural blend predominantly from the 16th and 18th centuries.

During the early 16th century, the church underwent a significant rebuild, adopting the esteemed Manueline style. Notable features include the side portal, adorned with trifoil arches, intricate foliate motifs, and meticulously carved rope motifs.

Inside, the church underwent transformations following the devastating earthquake that struck the Lisbon area. The choir, a magnificent display of extravagant gilded woodwork, became a hallmark of the mid-18th century.

As you wander through the nave, you’ll encounter exquisite 18th-century blue and white azulejos, depicting the life of St. Julian, adding to the church’s artistic allure and historical significance.

Avenida Luísa Todi: The Vibrant Heartbeat of Setúbal

Immerse yourself in the pulsating rhythm of daily life in Setúbal as you stroll along Avenida Luísa Todi, the city’s central avenue that encapsulates the essence of the town. This lively thoroughfare is home to iconic landmarks such as Mercado do Livramento and offers a captivating blend of urban vibrancy and natural beauty.

The avenue features two bustling lanes of traffic, separated by a pedestrian walkway adorned with lush lawns, inviting benches, and an abundance of foliage. As you traverse this vibrant promenade, you’ll encounter an array of bars, restaurants, and bakeries, ready to satisfy your culinary cravings.

Make a note in your diary to visit the antiques fair, held on the first and third Saturdays of each month, where you can explore a treasure trove of unique finds.

Praia de Albarquel: Tranquility by the Coast

Nestled beneath the pine-clad foothills of the Arrábida Natural Park, Praia de Albarquel stands as the closest beach to the town, beginning just below the fort. This serene haven is where the tranquil waters of the River Sado meet the vastness of the ocean.

Relish in the tranquility of this picturesque location, where a long stretch of golden sand invites you to unwind. Alongside the beach, a spacious park, beautifully landscaped in 2008, offers a delightful retreat. Even during winter, a leisurely stroll through the park allows you to visit the café, delight in the playground with your little ones, and soak in the breathtaking views of Tróia and the natural park.

Casa da Baía: A Gateway to Setúbal’s Treasures

An exquisite 18th-century mansion located on Avenida Luísa Todi, Casa da Baía underwent a transformation in 2011 and now serves as Setúbal’s tourist office. However, its allure extends beyond information and assistance, as it also serves as a promotion center for regional delights, including wine, sweets, and cheese.

Within the mansion, you’ll discover a wine shop showcasing the products of the region’s 36 esteemed producers, allowing you to savor the essence of Setúbal’s winemaking heritage. Additionally, a gourmet store awaits, offering delectable treats such as Queijo de Azeitão and other culinary delights.

Step into the enchanting winter garden, created within the mansion’s old cloister, providing a tranquil oasis amidst the historical setting. Outside, glass floor panels offer a glimpse of archaeological remains unearthed during the mansion’s conversion, adding a touch of intrigue to your visit.

To complete your experience, a complimentary glass of Setúbal Moscatel awaits, allowing you to savor the exquisite flavors of this renowned local wine.

Palmela Castle: A Majestic Sentinel of History

Just a short 15-minute journey north of Setúbal stands the magnificent Palmela Castle, perched high in the Arrábida Mountains, fulfilling its role as a protector of the land between the Tagus and Sado estuaries.

With a rich and turbulent past, this castle has stood atop the crag for centuries, with evidence of settlement and fortification predating even the Roman era. Throughout the 12th century, it witnessed fierce battles between Christians and Moors, finally coming under Portuguese control in 1212.

Over the centuries, modifications were made to the castle, continuing until the 1600s. Interestingly, as you venture further out, you’ll notice that the fortifications become more recent, with bastions and revelins added to the outer line to defend against artillery attacks.

Escarpa Road: A Scenic Drive through Nature’s Splendor

Embark on a captivating journey through the natural beauty of the Serra da Arrábida without ever leaving the comfort of your car, along the N379-1 road, also known as Estrada de Escarpa.

As you wind along this 15-kilometer route, be prepared to pause occasionally to revel in breathtaking viewpoints that offer panoramic vistas of the surrounding landscape. The twisting path may make the journey feel longer than it is, taking approximately an hour to complete.

Traversing the highest ridge of the range, the road treats you to views of Pico do Formosinho, a majestic peak reaching over 500 meters. Along the way, you’ll encounter charming white chapels, and the 16th-century Arrábida Convent majestically overseeing the beaches of Portinho and Alpertuche.

Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography: Unveiling Setúbal’s Heritage

Immerse yourself in the rich cultural heritage of Setúbal and its surrounding region at the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography. While predominantly catering to the local community, this museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the traditional way of life in Setúbal until the 20th century.

Explore detailed exhibits that delve into various industries of the past, such as cork extraction, cattle farming, salt farming, and fishing, accompanied by an array of tools that were once employed in these trades. Marvel at presentations showcasing the intricate local needlework, costumes, and the traditional crafts of lacework, wool-spinning, and weaving.

Enhancing the museum’s offerings is a small collection of artifacts spanning from prehistoric to Roman times. Discover ancient Celtic and Roman ceramics excavated from the historical site of Cetóbriga, which later evolved into Setúbal, providing a fascinating glimpse into the region’s ancient roots.

São Filipe Fort: A Sentinel against Pirates

Standing proudly on the left bank of the Sado Estuary, São Filipe Fort was constructed in 1582 as a formidable defense against marauding Barbary Pirates.

With its irregular star-shaped design, the fort features domed sentry posts that protrude from its walls and a tunnel accessible through the Portão de Armas.

Aside from the exhilarating vistas of Setúbal and the Tróia Peninsula visible from its ramparts, a must-see within the fort is the chapel. Adorned with azulejos (traditional Portuguese tiles), the chapel boasts a barrel vault, creating a captivating visual display.

Please note that the fort has been closed for renovation since 2014, although prior to that, it was open to the public and even housed a Pousada. To obtain the latest information regarding its reopening, it is advisable to inquire at Setúbal’s tourist office upon your arrival.

Dolphin Watching: A Memorable Maritime Encounter

Embark from the marina on a captivating catamaran excursion to witness the playful pods of dolphins in the Sado Estuary.

Led by experienced skippers, these dolphin-watching trips offer a fantastic opportunity to catch a glimpse of these majestic creatures. Often, you won’t have to venture far beyond the Tróia Peninsula before their fins come into view.

Rest assured, these companies adhere to strict regulations governing the respectful observation of dolphins, ensuring minimal disruption to their natural behavior. Knowledgeable guides will provide valuable insights into different dolphin species, while the dolphins themselves will dazzle you with their acrobatic displays, leaping joyously from the water.

Local Gastronomy: A Seafood Lover’s Delight

As a coastal city, Setúbal takes great pride in its culinary offerings, deeply rooted in the bounties of the Atlantic Ocean.

Prepare your taste buds for an array of delectable fish dishes, whether roasted, grilled, fried, or in flavorful stews. Setúbal is particularly renowned for its grilled sardines, a quintessential Portuguese delicacy best enjoyed alongside a simple lettuce salad, potatoes, and a refreshing glass of white wine.

Indulge in the delights of Atlantic horse mackerel, bass, and red mullet, the latter often accompanied by a delectable fish liver sauce. Additionally, most traditional restaurants offer choc frito, a tantalizing dish of deep-fried cuttlefish served with French fries, lemon, and mayonnaise.

Finally, be sure to savor the exquisite flavors of Bulhão Pato, a dish featuring succulent clams cooked with olive oil, garlic, coriander, and occasionally a touch of white wine.

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