Last month (yes I’m way behind on the blog) we spent 4 nights in Bangkok on Khoa San Rd, the famous (and infamous) backpacker area. Wall to wall overpriced hostels with grotty rooms, restaurants serving the worst attempt at Thai food we’ve ever tasted and overpriced pizzas, backpackers everywhere – it could be a tourist street in any city in the world. It certainly didn’t feel like Thailand after our week in Chiang Mai. But you know what – despite all this, we actually really enjoyed our time on Khoa San Rd.
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With that many travellers hanging around it had a vibrant atmosphere. Whether it was 8am in the morning, 4pm or 3am there were always people around. It’s a great place to people watch … particularly for tourists wearing clothes (or not wearing them) that they would never be game to wear elsewhere. Well actually I really hope they never wear these clothes outside of KhoaSan!
We found a great hostel – the newly renovated D & D Inn with their amazingly friendly receptionist, Suzie, who spoilt the kids with lollies and attention. The rooftop pool and view were great too. A little tip – if you are staying on Khoa San get a room away from the main street as the music and loud noise lasts all night. And I mean all night! Daniel learnt that the hard way. Thankfully our room was away from the road and we slept blissfully through the night.
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The markets were certainly the best we’ve seen for clothes and the usual tourist souvenirs, although sadly lacking the crafts and funkiness of the Chiang Mai markets. Still I could have spent days there shopping for t-shirts for Colin and I. For the most part the vendors were lovely … except for the guys selling suits that kept mistaking Daniel for my son. OK so I know I’m looking a bit tired after a year on the road with the kids and thyroid cancer but come on – he’s 18, I’m 33. The maths is a little insulting!!!
Khoa San Rd is the kind of place that anything and evertyhing is for sale. Can’t be bothered finishing your uni degree or need qualifications ASAP for that perfect job? Then come to Khoa San Rd. There are guys every two metres that can set you up with ID.
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One thing we’ve seen around Thailand a lot is AirAsia advertising. Billboards, posters, taxis. Even the odd Songtheow. Of course KhoaSan was the first time we’ve seen food carts covered in AirAsia signs.
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The restaurants might be overpriced (90 baht for fried rice is just ludicrious!) but the food carts are cheap and serve great food. The chicken and basil outside D&D Inn smelt amazing but they were only there during the day so I missed out when I went back at dinner time.
Do you think she needs a bigger sidecar on her bike to cart her merchandise? At least I think there’s a bike under there somewhere, its hard to tell.
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Khoa San Rd is also perfectly located at the edge of Bangkok’s old city centre so it was easy for the kids and I to explore the riverside, temples and palace by foot while Colin caught up on work. The kids loved exploring outside Fort Phra Sumen and our tuk tuk ride past the Palace back to Khoa San.
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Of course the one thing they didn’t enjoy was the ridiculously over crowded river ferry. Frankly I’m surprised the boats don’t sink they’re that full. At one point I was even separated from the kids by the endless sea of people flowing on an off. I was only a meter from them but there was no physical way to even reach through and hold their hands – a very scary occurrence for all of us. Next time we’ll stick to just watching from the bank.
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Anyway back to Khoa San Rd … was it a great place to stay with kids? Absolutely. Will we go back again? Maybe for a night, but I’d prefer to be a 10 minute walk away. The markets were fantastic and the atmosphere exciting but after two days we were over paying double what we had been for food, that wasn’t very good anyway. Just a few streets away the restaurants were almost half the price and served much better food. But it was fantastic to stay there for a few days and experience the backpacking beast that it is. It’s not ‘Thailand’ but it is a fun place to see. For the younger backpacker I can definitely see the appeal and I’m pretty sure Daniel will go back at some point! I think Khoa San is one of those places that is fantastic to see and experience once, but after that you’re better to stay a short walk or tuk tuk drive away and just visit.
If you’re planning a trip to Khao San Rd, check out Nancy Chandler’s maps. Very helpful.